Thursday, February 6, 2014

Down memory lane...


Peter and I had a bitter-sweet trip last weekend for his 70th birthday on Feb 1st!

Despite the 20 hour trip that Mary and I endured on the train from Mombasa to Nairobi on my birthday in December, we decided that it must have been an isolated one-off linked to heavy Christmas traffic. The timetable says the journey will take 12 to 14 hours. As Peter hadn’t been on this train for 50+ years, he wanted to relive something that had been a big part of his school years: the termly overnight train ride from coast to capital and back. We fully expected to arrive in Mombasa just after breakfast on his birthday.
Just like the old days...
We left Nairobi station at 20.00h, only an hour late. The sleeping carriage, though shabby, was reasonably clean, the evening meal edible and the company equable. 
We retired to sleep with Peter, singing the 'Runaway train went down the track and it blew...'(remember that kids? Dad's favourite lullaby for you!) He wanted to ring Elizabeth to let her hear the familiar sound of the clunking wheels. You'll be glad to know that I stopped him phoning you, Elizabeth, but we have it on video!
The runaway train...?


We awoke at dawn as we drew into a station. Peter joked, “Don’t tell me it’s Makindu…”. Makindu is where we’d had an eventful puncture on our way to Tsavo with Catriona and Fritha in early January: it’s less than half way to Mombasa! Without my specs I squinted and spelled out: M…A…K…I…. Yep: we were on a slow train ride to Mombasa again! 
Reaching Voi only by midday some German fellow travellers jumped train and decided to flag down a passing matatu (small bus). We had slight sympathy for the matatu as one of our Teutonic friends must have been well over 20 stone! We decided to sit it out, enjoy the view, knowing we had the Mombasa Club booked for the night. This year we have both spent our birthdays on the Nairobi - Mombasa train!

Arriving in Mombasa
Why the trains are going so slowly is a matter of debate but we generally think the track is in bad shape and, with a promise of Chinese investment to build a new line, this current one is not being maintained.

Mombasa station...nearly home?

Peter’s dampened birthday spirit was revived by arrival in Mombasa by 17.30, the recognition of familiar sights and our warm welcome at the timeless Mombasa club ... hardly changed over 50 years, with a breezy room and a great view of the bay.

The timeless Mombasa club


The club pool

After a quick swim in the unchanged pool, we had a wonderful seafood platter for dinner on the warmest Feb 1st birthday evening since we’ve known each other!




We had a rapid walk around the old town after breakfast but even Peter's pretty good Swahili couldn’t avoid the immediate arrival of a 'guide' who couldn’t be thrown off. So we curtailed our walk and got a taxi to nearby Nyali beach where we were booked to stay for one night at the big hotel near Peter’s old house and go in search of his childhood memories…

'Now where did we used to live?'











We were last here in the mid ‘70s when we had found the house where Peter‘s family lived in the 50’s and early 60’s with ease, and met the expat lady living there. 

This time Peter wandered up and down the beach in puzzlement. He knew approximately how far he should be from the hotel; from the army camp that is still there; from a nose of rock that apparently had been washed away. The houses on the beach were either dilapidated or reconstructed into non-descript blocks of flats behind high concrete walls.


We retraced our steps as it dawned on Peter that what he was looking for was the most dilapidated of all the houses: set back from the beach, a small white bungalow with a collapsed makuti roof and unkempt garden, now looking as if a local family was living there. The photos tell it all...

Tempus fugit


'...and we walked through there to get to the beach'
Time had not been kind to this memory.  

What hadn’t changed was the intensity of colours: sky, sand, flowers and foliage.




...and the sound of waves breaking on the reef...


We swam lengths in the huge hotel pool, collected a sand sample, slept fine and flew back to Nairobi on Monday (taking 40 minutes where the train had taken 22 hours!)

Colourful Kikois on Nyali beach

Friday, November 8, 2013

Ewan and Leila's visit October 2013

Our first visitors, Ewan and Leila, arrived in mid-October.
Ewan had a brand new gadget: a movie camera that could be mounted on his head, on a stick, under water etc. He's got some great film which I'll try and add a bit of here. Otherwise he borrowed our camera for a few days so these photos are from his collection...

Day two of their visit began with a short horse trek at Green Park and then we left to spend the night at a self catering lodge in Lake Nakuru National Park : about 90 minutes drive away.

Within five minutes of entering the park we saw our first and only lions. The male's pretty well camouflaged...the next photo is a close-up. All these first photos are taken between 16.00 and 19.00. Parks aren't cheap to 'enter' so we were here for 24 hours: intending to leave the next day by 16.00.










All the Rift Valley lakes are very full this year and Nakuru is no exception. Certain roads were impassable and even the animals are coping with more water than they are used to... 

Navigating by map became quite tricky as roads it said were there ... were actually under water! 






This park is famous for its white(wide-mouthed)and black rhino. We got very close to this white rhino: this photo is not enlarged or taken with telephoto...In the next photo you see the same rhino (and me) through the wing mirror.




Ewan was up early the next day to take some glorious sunrise photos.


This may have been the buffalo who stared into Peter's eyes right next to the bedroom window just before dawn! 


We went for an early drive before breakfast: see the times as the next two hours go by as we drove up to a viewpoint above the lake. We were hoping to see a leopard(no luck)but a photogenic giraffe, a buffalo family and an elusive, darting dik-dik obliged.




Yes, Ewan's standing on the roof of the pick-up 
... to get a better shot!



Returning to the cottage for breakfast we were entertained by a family (troupe?) of monkeys. Ewan rigged up his movie camera with a banana or strawberry attached to the fork in front of it to take some great footage of fruit-mad monkeys! If I can work out how to reduce the size of the films: I'll add one here...



Breakfasted and packed up by 10.00 we headed off to drive around the lake and have lunch at one of the lodges...




Yes, Ewan is now sitting out of the window...to get a better shot! Memories of New Zealand Christmas 1985 anyone? 

It was lovely to welcome Ewan and Leila and show them around this part of Kenya. We really look forward to our next guests at Christmas time xxx

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

...of moonflowers, maids and monkeys, of buffalo and cars!


Not many photos this time … just a sort of journal of a few days of my life here in Green Park… but I’ll start with the ‘moonflowers', I’m sure they have a botanical name, that have just started to bloom (with a hypnotic perfume) outside our bedroom balcony.


...in which I justify not having a maid!
It’s 7 o’ clock: not my usual hour of rising in the UK but the lack of dawn at the equator brings such a dramatic change of light that it seems natural to rise and get on with the day. It’s almost pitch dark at 6,  with sunrise on the dot at around 6.35  as the sun peeps, blasts or spreads, depending on cloud cover, over the Aberdare range to the east.  

Peter has already left on his trek to the office. He’s had his four wheel drive Toyota for a week and it makes a huge difference to the first third of the journey which is basically downhill over rocky and dusty roads. The last car was called the ‘tin can’ for acoustic reasons: this one will be Kubwa (big) can…due to its registration KBW! See below for the continuation of the ‘Can’ riff… This photo is of the amazing fig trees we pass drivng to the farm. They look as if they will rise and walk to Mordor any day soon…


OK…housework first… The bath has proved to be the best solution for clothes washing as we’ve no machine …yet! I have resisted frequent suggestions that I have a maid: there’s just not enough to do with two of us in this small cottage. I rarely mention it (lack of maid) round here as I’m pretty unique in such resistance and don’t want to muddy the waters.  I understand that employing a maid is helping another family but if there’s really nothing to do day to day…?

...in which I almost encounter a buffalo and acquire a car: quickly!
I have my last yoga session with Lel (Peter’s boss's wife)  later on before I go back to the UK next weekend. I’m really appreciating learning the breathing and the extra stretches, with about half of the positions familiar from Pilates and dance warm-ups and am reciprocating with Lel who wanted to learn French in an active way: just my style! For my first yoga sessions I used to walk down to Lel’s; about 15 minutes stroll out of this fenced garden, down the open road, across the airstrip and into her fenced garden. However, two weeks ago, I was stopped by a pickup and greeted by Val, the estate manager’s wife, who queried the freedom of my walking and said they’d been culling buffalo at the weekend, who do roam at night around these roads and the open areas and there was a wounded one still on the loose! Hmm…no notices around to warn us…and the locals walk freely on these roads.  I hopped in for a quick lift downhill and had to do a retake on the speed at which I acquired a car! A pity … as I was enjoying those longer walks, although we’ve got a great half hour trek, uphill and down dale, within these grounds: bring strong trainers when you come. Luckily our neighbour Nella, who runs a luxury safari company (check out her lovely site: www.tintrunksafari.com) had an old RAV for sale…and now it’s mine!  As its registration is KAN… J: it’s now known as the J-can!  Here it is on the drive at the back of the cottage.

...in which I praise the World Service and look forward to a school visit
My blog typing and housework is accompanied by the wonderful World Service: a more political, less ‘arty’ replacement for Radio 4. We pick up the East African service here which is partially London based, for world news, and partially east African. Last week there was a focus on the benefit of the World Food Programme, linked I think to Clinton’s visit to this area: balanced and informative.
My days may seem a bit indulgent at the moment. OK I know I’m vaguely near retirement age (this week I celebrate my first official UK pension!) and I have enjoyed my first walk around a golf course and game of bridge (yes Mary and Elizabeth, you read that right!) I am also, however, working on getting more involved in the local community and paid a visit to the HT of the local primary last week, before the children were back. I’m going again tomorrow to see the school in action. I’ll write more next time but to set the scene this primary has almost 2000 children with parents ( 90% single parent families) working mostly on local flower farms and almost 100 children in each class: the size of a Norfolk school assembly! The new HT was very enthusiastic and when asked for three priorities for the future said: textbooks (they’ve approximately one to 6 pupils); chairs (not enough for each pupil)and more teachers = smaller classes.  I’ve learnt a bit of the background, curriculum, exam system, existing but decreasing trust help, funding issues and the history of its rapid expansion as the farms have developed. Tomorrow I’m just going to sit in on some classes and see the classroom dynamic in these huge groups. When I come back, if I can help in any way, I will.
...in which Sammy remains very much at home and we watch Colobus monkeys at play
Here’s Sammy with Larka and Nimrod who come to pay a visit and have a nose around during the day. But this is Sammy’s patio and she’s queen of this castle!


On Sunday we had to pay a morning visit to the farm to check on the progress of tunnel erection...
We decided to have Sunday lunch out and went to the Elsamere Centre on the  shores of Lake Naivasha. This is Joy Adamson’s old house (Born Free/ Elsa the lioness) and is now a small lodge and museum. The buffet lunch was excellent, the environment really peaceful and ‘old-colonial’ and the resident Colobus monkeys, playful and photogenic. Definitely somewhere to return to with friends and family.

Thursday, August 8, 2013

Kenya’s Rift Valley is the dominant geological feature of our daily lives near Naivasha. It is home to several lakes,some more saline than others: Naivasha is the southernmost lake, Nakuru is the central one and the northernmost is the freshwater Lake Baringo, about 3 and half hours drive north of Naivasha.
Having been recommended a particular lodge on an island in Lake Baringo, being ensured peace and quiet, great food and the odd bird or two,we treated ourselves to a late anniversary weekend away last weekend and headed north …
Astonishingly Lake Baringo is 5-7 metres higher than 3 years ago and several of the villages and lodge resorts on its shores are now partially submerged! Why such a dramatic water level rise? Partially climate change but also a cycle of rainfall that had the village grandfathers warning against building too low down to the shore as the levels were also this high 60 years ago!http://www.lake-baringo.com/rift/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=10
Even our island lodge may have to sacrifice a few bandas to mother nature...


Our room and surroundings were happily not submerged! We had a brand new room, half walled and half canvas with champagne to welcome us (someone must have given an anniversary hint!) and a wonderful sunrise over the water.

Returning to our car parked on the mainland on Sunday our boatman bartered with local boys fishing on their day off from school. The rising waters also mean more fish and greater catches for the locals. Their reed boats lie very low in the water and they paddle with home-made paddles such as milk cartons and tyre sections.


Roadside views on the way home:
Beehives : half logs, half barrels in the trees (great honey: we bought some in a whisky bottle from a roadside stall)


 A pair of tortoises
                                     The equator…







A sisal plantation


Back on shore...a place to return to…